TEQUILA

"Tequila is Mexico," said Carmelita Roman, widow of the late tequila producer Jesus Lopez Roman in an interview after her husband's murder. "It's the only product that identifies us as a culture."

No other drink is surrounded by as many stories, myths, legends and lore as tequila and its companion, mezcal. They transcend simple definition by reaching into the heart of Mexico, past and present. The turbulent history of Mexico is paralleled in the stories of tequila and mezcal. One cannot fully appreciate Mexico without some understanding of tequila's place in its history and culture.

Tequila is an alcoholic drink made in the arid highlands of central Mexico, from fermented and distilled sap of the agave (also called a maguey), an indigenous plant (a succulent, not a cactus). Archeologists say the agave has been cultivated for at least 9,000 years. ‘Tequila wine’ was first made by the Conquistadors, who distilled a native drink called pulque into a stronger spirit. In the 400 years following the Conquest, tequila has become an icon of Mexican nationality, pride and culture, recognized worldwide. Today, most of it is made in Jalisco state around the town of Tequila.

Mezcal is a related drink and is the older form of the name for tequila as well. The name for the product made in Jalisco state was adopted in the late 19th century. Technically, all tequilas are mezcals, which were also known as mezcal wines and mezcal brandies before the name tequila became common. Today they are distinct products, differentiated by production process and taste, much the same way rye whisky and Scotch whisky differ. Most mezcal is made in Oaxaca state today, although some (mostly regional and not for export) is also made in Guerrero, Zacatecas, and other states.

Tequila Myth #1:
There's a worm in tequila.

There is no worm in Mexican-bottled tequila. Yes, some American-bottled brand(s) put one in their bottle to impress the gringos and boost sales, but it's only a marketing ploy and not a Mexican tradition. There is a worm - called a gusano, properly a butterfly caterpillar (Hipopta Agavis) - in some types of mezcal (but not all). You may also get a small bag of 'worm salt' - dried gusano, salt and chile powder tied to a mezcal bottle.

The worm-in-the-bottle myth is old and tired. The truth has been broadcast and expounded for years by the cognoscenti of tequila, in newspapers, magazines and on the Net. There should be no need to defend tequila; we should not have to dispel this myth further. It is merely an urban legend.

Is the worm even a traditional element in mezcal production? Not according to Del Maguey Mezcal producers: they say it's a recent development, a marketing ploy that appeared only in the 1940s to try and get more attention on mezcal - and they should know.  It's worth reading their story at: www.mezcal.com/worms.html.

There are two types of gusano in mezcal: the red (gusano rojo - considered superior because it lives in the root and heart of the maguey) and the less-prized white or gold (gusano de oro), which lives on the leaves. The red gusano turns pale in the mezcal, the gold turns ashen-grey. Both larvae are commonly eaten as food and are sold in Zapotec markets.

Yes, you're supposed to eat the worm in mezcal. Don't worry: it's quite well pickled and free of pesticides (they're often raised just for  use in mezcal, cooked and pickled in alcohol for a year). But dispel any idea it has any magical or psychotropic properties, that it's an aphrodisiac or the key to an 'unseen world.' It's merely protein and alcohol - but it's very rich in imagery.

Tequila Myth #2:
Tequila is made from cactus.

Tequila is made from distilled sap from hearts (piñas) of the agave or maguey (pr. 'mah-gay') plant. This plant is actually related to the lily and amaryllis (it has its own genus, Agave). It is known as a succulent and, although it shares a common habitat with many cacti, it is not one itself and has a different life cycle. A mature agave has leaves 5-8 feet tall, and is 7-12 feet in diameter. It has a lifespan of 8-15 years, depending on species, growing conditions and climate. The name agave comes from the Greek word for 'noble.'

There are 136 species of agave in Mexico, of which the blue agave - agave tequilana weber azul - is the only one allowed for use in tequila production. Several different species of agave are allowed for use in mezcal, including a rare wild species, tobala. Other agave plants are used for the production of various regional drinks like sotol, raicilla, bacanora and pulque. Agave has been cultivated on this continent for at least 9,000 years.

No Mexican alcoholic drink is made from cactus. However, cactus is used in some fruit drinks, salads and other food items.

Tequila Myth #3:
Tequila and mezcal are the same thing.

Technically, tequila is a type of  mezcal, but mezcals are not tequilas. They both derive from varieties of the plant known to the natives as 'mexcalmetl.' Although they have many similarities, tequila and mezcal are as different today as scotch and rye. Tequila is made from only agave tequilana Weber, blue variety. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from five different varieties of agave - mostly espadin, but including some wild varieties grown without pesticides.

Tequila is double distilled and a few brands even boast triple distillation - perhaps overdone by some tastes. Mezcal is often only distilled once (although premium blends may be distilled twice). Mezcal is made by 'palenqueros,' tequila by 'tequileros'. Maguey growers in general are known as 'magueros.'

Mezcal piñas - the sugar-rich heart of the agave - are baked in a conical, rock-lined pit oven (palenque) over charcoal, and covered with layers of palm-fiber mats and earth, giving mezcal a strong, smoky flavour. Tequila piñas are baked or steamed in above-ground ovens or autoclaves.

Most mezcal is produced around the city of Oaxaca (and can officially be produced in the states of Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosi and Zacatecas). Tequila comes from the northwestern state of Jalisco (and a few nearby areas).

The differences between the two can be likened to the differences between scotch and rye whiskeys. Or between cognac and brandy. Tequila and mezcal are similar, however in the amount of alcohol in the bottle (around 38-40%), although mezcals tend to be a little stronger.

Mezcal is right now undergoing its own revolution in popularity and similar standards for its production have been established. Many drinkers who see tequila's popularity as moving the drink away from the heart of Mexico, are turning to mezcal as better retaining the soul - and taste - of the culture. But premium mezcals are appearing on the shelves beside tequila. Read about it at Mexican Mezcal Challenges Tequila. Will mezcal match tequila in production, sales and marketing hype? It's a long way to go - there are 500+ brands of tequila available in 1999, compared to about 100 for mezcal.

Mexican law passed in 1994 now protects the name mezcal from being applied to products made from anything except the allowed and approved agave plants. Only six counties (municipos) can legally manufacture a drink named mezcal, all near to the city of Oaxaca. Refer to NOM -070-SCFI-1994.

Tequila Myth #4:
Tequila is only bottled homebrew.

Tequila manufacture is tightly controlled by the Mexican government and the Tequila Regulatory Council. Statements made on the bottle about age, style and content have legal requirements. There is also a non-profit council called the Chamber of Tequila Producers which regulates the industry.

Tequila is not moonshine: it is carefully distilled and aged, although each company has its own system, process and quality control. Most manufacturers take considerable pride in their production, especially of the limited quantity añejo varieties that are carefully aged for up to four years in oak barrels.

There are regional drinks and local homebrews distilled from agave sap. These include sotol, bacanora and raicilla, as well as some simply referred to by the traditional name of 'mezcal.' Many of these regional drinks have only recently been legalized for production in Mexico, and are gaining new acceptance, although distribution is still very limited. Pulque is also made from agave, but it is fermented without being distilled, so has a low alcohol content.

Nor is tequila any stronger than other liquors. Most tequilas have the same liquor content - about the same as any other hard liquor: 38-40%. However, the official norm allows a range from 38-55%.

Forget any story that tequila contains psychedelic drugs or has any such effect. That myth came from people who assumed mezcal meant mescaline and it applied to tequila too. The agave does not contain psychotropic components. It's another urban myth.

Tequila Myth #5:
The best tequilas cost the most.

Price isn't always a good way to judge things. A lot of the cost may go to fancy packaging, designer bottles, large advertising campaigns and simply to status. A well-advertised and promoted Porfidio blanco at $100+ US is not necessarily a better buy than a Sauza Hornitos reposado at $10. It depends on your taste and what you expect in a tequila.

There's a large market of excellent tequilas available in Mexico at $20-$30 US, and a very good choice in the range from $30-$50 US. Under $20, most of the tequilas are mass produced for the local market, and usually mixto (not 100% agave). Above that price, they're aiming mostly at the snobbery of the export and premium market, often with collector bottles and recently introduced individually numbered bottles.

Taste is the ultimate deciding factor. Some people prefer the rougher edge of the young blanco tequilas with their more distinct agave flavour. Others like the sharper, almost peppery flavour of a reposado. And some may prefer the smooth, woody aroma in an añejo. Try them first at a local bar, then decide which to buy.

Tequila Myth #6: 
All tequilas are the same, 
only the bottles are different.

Like single-malt scotches, or small-brewery sakes, tequilas vary according to the company making them, the process and the growing environment. The temperature, soil, types of equipment, age of the plants and the means by which the plants are baked and aged all affect the flavour and body.

There is a surprisingly wide variation in tequila flavours - especially between styles like blanco, reposado and añejo - making it difficult for many neophytes to recognize each distinction, especially when the more subtle añejo tequilas are involved. Tequilas can accost you, confront you and challenge you - or they can woo you ore seduce you with soft, subtle fragrances and dusky aromas.

Production techniques affect the taste. Generally traditional methods produce much stronger agave flavour than modern, mass production. Aging in barrels also affects the taste, and not always to the better. The woody flavour imparted by the oak can overpower the natural agave. And some manufacturers are now adding wood essence to darken the tequila so it looks more aged - see the notes below.

Fancy packaging, wooden boxes and elegant bottles - many handmade or decorated by artisans - and are now common with premium tequilas. They have become collector's items in their own right. While they don't add to the basic quality of the drink in the bottle, they do add to its charm and certainly its visual appeal.

Mezcal is a related drink and is the older form of the name for tequila as well. The name for the product made in Jalisco state was adopted in the late 19th century. Technically, all tequilas are mezcals, which were also known as mezcal wines and mezcal brandies before the name tequila became common. Today they are distinct products, differentiated by production process and taste, much the same way rye whisky and Scotch whisky differ. Most mezcal is made in Oaxaca state today, although some (mostly regional and not for export) is also made in Guerrero, Zacatecas, and other states.

First the history: Tequila was first distilled in the 1500-1600's in the state of Jalisco, Mexico. Guadalajara is the capital of Jalisco and the city of Tequila was established in about 1656. This is where the agave plant grows best.

The agave is not a cactus as rumored, but belongs to the lily family and has long spiny leaves (pincas). The specific plant that is used to make tequila is the Weber blue agave. It takes 8-12 years for the agave to reach maturity. During harvest, the leaves are cut off leaving the heart of the plant or pina which looks like a large pineapple when the jimadors are done. The harvested pina may weigh 200 pounds or more and is chopped into smaller pieces for cooking at the distillery.

Tequila was first imported into the United States in 1873 when the first load was transported to El Paso, Texas. In 1973 tequila sales in the US topped one million cases.

There are two basic types of tequila, 100% blue agave (cien por ciento de agave) tequila and mixto. The 100% blue agave tequilas are distilled entirely from the fermented juice of the agave. All 100% agave tequilas have to be distilled and bottled in Mexico. If the bottle does not say 100% blue agave, the tequila is mixto and may have been distilled from as little as 60% agave juice with other sugars.

Grades of tequila:

• Blanco: 100% agave tequila that is unaged and untreated with additives.
• Reposado: 100% agave, "rested" tequila that has been stored in oak between two months and one year.
• Anejo: 100% agave, aged tequila that has been stored in oak at least one year.
• Mixto blanco: mixto tequila that is unaged.
• Mixto reposado: mixto tequila that has been stored in oak between two months and one year.
• Mixto anejo: aged mixto tequila that has been stored in oak at least one year.
• Joven abocado: mixto tequila that has been treated with additives to achieve an effect similar to aging.

As the tequila is aged in wooden barrels, usually oak, it becomes smoother, with a woody taste and golden color. Aging may disguise the agave flavor and few tequilas are aged longer than three to four years.

Each distillery in Mexico is assigned a NOM number that shows which company made or bottled the tequila.

There is no worm in tequila, that is Mezcal which is a whole different animal.